Parma is a Balkan kafana in the purest sense: checked tablecloths, white wooden benches under a covered terrace, and a grill that never really stops. The food is the classic roštilj repertoire, done well, at mid-range prices that feel fair for the portions.
What sets it apart is the clock. Parma is open 24 hours a day, which in a town that parties as late as Budva makes it something close to a public service. Its best hour is not dinner time: it is the end of the night, when the clubs empty out, everyone is starving and Parma is still lit up and serving.
That is when you order the srednja pljeskavica. Pljeskavica is the Balkan grilled patty, a wide, juicy round of minced meat, and srednja simply means the middle size. It arrives in a soft lepinja bun or on a clay plate over chips with sliced raw onion, and it is the dish locals point you to. Learn the two words before you go.
Come at a normal hour and it is still a good, unpretentious place to eat grilled meat with a beer. But if you only go once, go late, after a night out in town.
